Here is an article about Irani Chai:
Sipping on Irani Chai: The Story of Hyderabad in a Cup
In the bustling, historic heart of Hyderabad, amidst the symphony of auto-rickshaws and the vibrant chaos of its bazaars, lies a ritual that is the city’s lifeblood. It’s a moment of pause, a catalyst for conversation, and a taste of history, all served in a small, thick-walled ceramic cup. This is the world of Irani chai, and to drink it is to sip on the very soul of Hyderabad.
More than just a beverage, Irani chai is a cultural institution, a liquid legacy of the city’s rich, multicultural past. Its story is not steeped in the tea gardens of Assam, but in the arid landscapes of Persia, carried to India by Zoroastrian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These enterprising Persians first set up corner cafes in Bombay, and soon, they brought their unique culture and culinary craft to the Deccan, a region already deeply influenced by Persian art, language, and cuisine under the patronage of the Nizams.
What makes Irani chai distinct from the ubiquitous masala chai found across India is its preparation. It’s a tale of two pots. In one large vessel, a potent, dark, and slightly bitter tea decoction (the khada decoction) is slow-brewed for hours. In another, full-fat milk is boiled down until it thickens, sweetens, and takes on a creamy, almost pinkish hue, often enriched with mawa (milk solids) or condensed milk.
When you order a “chai,” the cafe owner expertly pours a small amount of the dark decoction into a cup and then tops it with the thick, sweet milk. The result is a perfectly balanced, two-toned brew—strong but not bitter, sweet but not cloying, and with a luxuriously creamy texture that coats the palate.
But the story of Irani chai is incomplete without its setting: the Irani café. These cafes are not just places to drink tea; they are timeless social hubs. Step into a classic establishment like Nimrah or Garden Cafe near Charminar, and you step back in time. The ambiance is spartan yet full of character: checkered floors, marble-topped tables that have borne witness to millions of conversations, bentwood chairs, and large, slightly faded mirrors reflecting a cross-section of the city.
In these democratic spaces, Hyderabad’s famous Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb (a syncretic culture of Hindu-Muslim unity) comes alive. Businessmen in crisp shirts sit beside daily wage labourers, and university students debate politics next to elderly gentlemen quietly reading the newspaper. The Irani café became the great equalizer, a place where identity was left at the door and community was built over a shared cup of chai. It was here that friendships were forged, business deals were struck, and revolutions were quietly plotted.
Of course, no cup of Irani chai is complete without its faithful companion: the Osmania biscuit. This plump, golden biscuit, purportedly named after Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam of Hyderabad, is a culinary masterpiece in its own right. It is subtly sweet, yet has a distinct savoury, salty edge that perfectly cuts through the creaminess of the chai. The ritual of dunking a crumbly Osmania biscuit into the hot tea, letting it soak up the flavour just enough so it doesn’t fall apart, is a small joy that defines the Hyderabadi experience. Bun Maska (a soft bun slathered with butter) and Khari (flaky puff pastry) are other popular partners in this delicious daily tradition.
In today’s fast-paced world, where global coffee chains are mushrooming on every corner, the number of traditional Irani cafes has dwindled. Yet, the legacy endures. The surviving cafes are cherished landmarks, fiercely protected by loyal patrons. The aroma of brewing tea and baking biscuits still spills onto the streets, acting as an anchor to the city’s past.
To sit at a small table, watching the world go by with a cup of Irani chai in hand, is to understand Hyderabad. It’s to taste the influence of Persia, to feel the warmth of its communal spirit, and to appreciate the simple, enduring pleasures that bind a city together. This humble cup holds more than just tea; it holds memories, heritage, and the living, breathing story of Hyderabad, holding a conversation with its past, one delicious sip at a time.
